This intonatable bridge has individual saddles. If the above repair does not produce satisfactory results you'll probably want to replace the tape. You will never be able to remove dried super glue! Also, be careful not to allow any of the glue to leak out onto the body. With the glue spread evenly on the tape, press down on the tape while simutaneously rubbing making sure you don't super glue your fingers to the body! Keep up this pressing/rubbing moting until the glue has bonded. (Note: Do not use expandable type glues as this may cause bumps under the tape). Do not spread the super glue right to the edge of the tape as it will get on the guitar when you press the tape down to affix it. If the blow dryer procedure doesn't have a lasting effect, try lifting up the tape and applying a very thin layer of super glue to the back of the tape using a toothpick or glue syringe. Tape usually starts popping up again especially if the guitar gets cold. If there was enough glue on the tape originally it may stay down, although this may only prove to be a temporary fix. Sometimes it helps to put a soft cloth between your fingers and the guitar while rubbing. Keep up this pressing/rubbing motion until the tape cools a bit. While the tape is warming, begin pressing it down while at the same time rubbing it with your fingers. Try taking a blow dryer and heating the tape, being careful not to overheat and melt it. Nevertheless it's annoying so you'll want to remedy the situation.

This is of course strictly an aesthetic issue. On these newer Danos, inparticular the 59-DC first reissue, the problem with the side binding tape lifting or bubbling is usually caused by tape shrinkage due to changes in temperature and/or humidity. On the newer models it's strictly decorative and keeps that vintage vibe going. Is there anyway I can repair this without cutting the tape or replacing it?ДЄ: On the vintage Danos the side binding tape was necessary to hide a seam in the body.

Q: I own a 59-DC and the side tape is lifting up especially around the cutaway areas. Neck: 4/32' top of pickup to bottom of stringДЄction: set to 8/64' at 4th string (low string) at the 12th fret 6/64' at 1st string (high string) at the 12th fret Neck: 4/64' top of pickup to bottom of stringДЄction: set to 5/64' at 6th string (low string) not to exceed 6/64' 4/64' at 1st string (high string) not to exceed 5/64'Д«ridge: 2/32' top of pickup to bottom of string Pickup height: measure space from the top of the pickup to the bottom of the low and high E strings using the 6' steel rule in 1/64' increments.ДЄction: set to 2/32' at the 12th fret for all stringsД«ridge: 3/64' top of pickup to bottom of string Nut height: Measure space between top of first fret and bottom of each string with feeler gauge. Measure space between the top of the 7th fret and bottom of string with feeler gauge. Truss rod: Capo 1st fret and fret low E string at 15th fret.

The inner strings will graduate in height and follow the fingerboard radius. All strings must be tuned to pitch when measurements are made.ДЄction: Measured from top of 12th fret to bottom of string with 6' steel rule in 1/64' incrementsFor Bass and Baritone there are measurements for the low and high strings. Do you have any specs or measurements to assist in doing this?ДЄll measurements with guitar in playing position, no exceptions, guitar cannot be laid flat on a table or workbench to make measurements. Q: I want to properly set up my Danelectro Guitar, Bass, and Baritone.

Danelectro reissue serial numbers